The first impression that one who has never been to Istanbul gets here is that this city is totally European. Therefore, if you think that you will immediately enter a large Eastern bazaar or see the things from all these old movies about Sultans and Padishahs, you will be very surprised. As I have said, at the first glance, Istanbul is a typical European megapolis. Its Eastern substance will appear to you bit by bit. Moreover, it is somewhat unusual. Yes, it is East, but this East is European rather than Asian.
We will come to this later, in any case. As for the first day, you will be amazed by… the cats.
All sorts of these nice animals literally swarm here. These are as important for the locals as cows are for Indians. Cat is like holy animal of Istanbul. Cats lie under parked cars, cats walk bridges rubbing themselves with fishermen’s feet, cats take sunbaths lying on luxurious hotels’ steps… Having just entered the yard by the museum of archaeology, I saw 20 cats wandering and doing all kinds of things.
To kick a cat is an impossible thing; to give her food is just natural. Therefore, Istanbul cats are all big, well-groomed, and in no way intimidated. The first thing she will do if she sees you is that she will approach to you and start playing.
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In any respectful megapolis will you see slums. So will you in Istanbul. Usually, they are dwelled by African immigrants who come here due to simplified visa system, and eventually settle. The police here can be noticed only when something is happening, therefore, one can stay in Istanbul illegally for years. The point is to be unnoticed and quiet. Afroturks are. Some Istanbul districts like Edirnekapi, Kasimpasa, Balat, are not different from Harlem and alike where blacks play basketball and listen to hip-hop all the time.
There is just one pin-point.
Istanbul police are generally unnoticeable, but if they happen to reveal themselves, forget about this political correctness. This term is hardly accepted in Turkey to be vital. Therefore, a police dealing with a law violator will not care neither about his colour nor about his social class. Slums dwellers are aware of this, and behave themselves quite quietly even within their quarters. During my first day in Istanbul, I took a turn to one of those darks streets walking along Istiklal Avenue (same thing as Arbat in Moscow or Mon-Martre in Paris) by mistake. Hence, I entered one of those slums with wooden half-rotten balconies, dirty ugly houses and bad-intended aborigines. Three of them begged me for some money. I rejected to give any, and each of us took his own way. No police were around.
Well, you should not risk each time, but in general, Istanbul is a calm town. If you get lost and appear to get to slums, the worst your experience will be loss of your wallet.
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The first stereotype that is broken by Istanbul is its being a typical Eastern town. The second is its being a typical closed Islamic town. Women here are dressed similarly to those in any European city – strikingly, with a good taste, even defiantly, just like women should. Well, you can see a woman with a yashmak on, but can’t you see such ladies in Paris, London, or Moscow? European dress is a usual thing for Turkish ladies.
Istanbul is a defiant city.
That’s why there are lots of transvestites in Istanbul, to-day. God’s truth, not less than in Thaliland! Needless to say, nobody throws stones on them. In fact, in Istanbul they have literally occupied a few streets in Beyoglu district. The only their problem is concerned with the police, because these women-like men often deal with prostitution. They stand along streets waiting for their clients, and hide in side streets as police cars appear on sight. If they get caught, they pay a fine. Although strictly prohibited in Turkey, prostitution, of course, exists here too. It just is not that obvious as, say, in Holland.
"You arrive at a nightclub, for instance', my friend Andrew who has been working in Istanbul for five years says, "and a girl is sat by you. If the nightclub is a cheap one, you can be sure that this is not consummation, but mere prostitution. You go upstairs with her, and when you leave afterwards, the bill will include the girl’s service in addition to your drinks. They just put it down neutrally like "massage" or so. Or they simply write that the things you ate cost more than the do"…
... So, are you still thinking that Turkey is the country where Islamic laws rule? Then, try to remember in how many cinemas of your town pornographic films are shown. How was the try? In most countries, these are strictly prohibited. As for Turkey, there are lots of them, especially in Istanbul. Two of them, for instance, are on Istiklal Avenue. Admittedly, only few visitors watch such films. But ironically, two buildings further along the street you will find St. Anthony temple, which is the most beautiful catholic church in Istanbul. Such are things. Such is Istanbul: opposite places are neighbouring everywhere, constructions with totally different purposes are stuffed one on another. Roofs of Orthodox temples are supported by Greek columns, covered Christian icons are on mosques’ walls, antique roads with plates made in Bronze Ages… Istanbul keeps constantly build itself, devour itself, and create itself at the same time.
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Let me briefly tell you about the program of the tour that our ten-person group had. We all were prepared to a long trip full of impressions for we had to travel 3.000 km in a week. It could not dissuade us. Those times when people visited Turkey just to take sunbaths on a beach are passing. People got used to Turkey, and eventually began seeing that this country is not only a beach. It is History itself!
“You will see at least three civilizations, thirty centuries, and ten nations while you will be traveling across Turkey”, they told us in the traveling agency.
Well, you know, they… lied! Yes, we did not see three civilizations – we saw more! Byzantium, Rome, Ottomans, Pergam, Ephesus, Empire of Alexander the Great… The same thing is with those peoples that once had live in Turkey, and then perished leaving only magnificent monuments – there happened to be much more than ten of such nations. So, in a nutshell, all those things told to you by tourist operators are not an exaggeration aimed at attracting more customers. All these are real facts. One single trip across the country will convince you of that. Thank Turks, no strict program is necessary. You remember the procedure? Buy a ticket, pay ten bucks for the visa, get on a bus/a cab/a train – and go on! All you need is a little money, a traveling guide that can be bought everywhere and basic knowledge of English. Even if your English is close to nothing, you can always communicate with any local by means of birds’ language. I say, these locals are extremely good intended towards tourists. So, you can easily travel the country alone without any problem.
I myself tried the thing. But for the first time I chose to travel with a guide to see the route. I advise you to do so as well, for firstly, it lets you investigate the route, and secondly, the guide will give you a lot of information on all the places you pass, and on peculiarities of Turkish life in general.
...Our route was approximately as follows – Istanbul - Canakkale (Troy) - Pergam - Ephesus - Pamukkale - Cappadocia - Ankara - Istanbul. Minor changes can occur due to the circumstances (mist, bad weather, etc.)
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